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LCF-AT

PC makes some trouble again...can you help?

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Jatt

card/memory problems can be easily solved by unplugging/plugin 2-3 times, sometimes copper connectors get oxidized (copper oxide, reaction of copper with oxygen) and friction removes that, you might ignore this, but it becomes huge problem when your cpu/gpu suddenly draw power, there are micro or nano sparks happen all the time in connectors (since they are not soldered) which make the copper to react with oxygen in air, copper is corrosive material.


 


post a pic of cpu with power supply connectors etc. 

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Dreamer

since this is LCF-AT post and i have similar problem i will like to see who can solve this  lol every time i want to start my pc hi start and shutdown  i push power on of and that is every day what i don understand is my pc only want to start if i have dvd in dvd rom  and its not set in bios to boot from dvd room 106.gif


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redblkjck

Just pushing on the video card and the bios posted?  Just to rule it out, try cleaning the metal tabs on the video card with a pencil eraser. Just lightly rub the eraser along the tabs to remove any buildup.  AGP port have any cracks or do the tabs look recessed in the slot?  Don't suppose you have another AGP card laying around to test out?  Or even a PCI video card just for testing.  I've seen a few AGP ports go bad, worn down or cracked but not very often.  More likely a power problem either the caps on the card itself or power to the card (PSU).  Cracked board, loose board, bad solder joint, something loose under the board making contact, cables would be other possibles but unlikely unless you have been bumping/moving the machine around alot.    To get a BIOS to post at a min you would need video card, memory and CPU.  If no video card inserted, the PC may beep but I don't beleive all BIOS will beep for no video.   If no memory or CPU inserted the boards normally beep in error codes.   So at the least with just these items hooked up with power, heatsinks, fans the BIOS should post.  If not then you are back to the PSU as the problable cause, the video card itself or the mainboard.   CPU failure normally isn't intermitent, when it fails nothing works right anything intermitent with CPU is likely the caps on the board or PSU.In ref to the BIOS clearing.  There is normally 3 pins or two points on the board.  Just example, pins may differ.  If 2-3 are shorted then clearing of CMOS is enabled when power is appied, 1-2 is just holding the jumper.  Many system do not include the pins with jumpers, instead you get two solder points on the board that need shorted.  Same method though, shorting of the pins when power is applied forces a clearing of the CMOS.  This isn't the exact same as soft reset of defaults from the BIOS.All the other jumpers on your board should be fine, if they haven't caused a problem over the years they are fine.  These may control power for usb, which ports are active or cpu settings if a really old system.  Most the newer stuff, everything is controlled in the BIOS.  Whether you can access these settings depends on the BIOS.   - jack

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LCF-AT

Hi again,

so today I removes the CPU and memory and did start the PC for some minutes and turn it off again and re-put all back and nothing happens again as always.Now I tried again to push and shake somewhere but also nothing happens etc and then I sit on my chair and just pressed the On/Off button on my LCD screen and at the same time I just pressed on the keyboard somewhere and then the LCD sreen goes goes On and I can see the start screen and after this the PC did the IDE port scan and then it starts normaly again.!?!So what was this now?So maybe the PC itself is not the problem and its maybe some problem with the LCD something etc no idea.Normaly its so then the LCD if its Off then I can see a "orange" light and if the PC starts then the light gets a "green" and does show me all on the LCD screen.

So can it be that was going normaly and that just the LCD did not work correctly and just keep off [orange light] and that the PC did start so far till the memory test ends and does stop then to wait for the LCD screen etc?Can this be?No idea so maybe it was just a lucky random or something like this but I will try this tomorrow again to verify this.

PS: If I turn on the PC and nothing happens then also the keyboard does not work so I can't enable / disable the green light of the NumLock button for exsample so is this normal?

PS2: So the power connector cable is the same as on your postet picture the first one with 20 Pins but I have no extra 4 pin cable on them only the 20 Pin.Also a floppy cable it on them + normal power cables for IDE.

Also I did clean anything on the PC also the videocard.No there are no cracks or something etc just a normal AGP Radeon 9600 card etc you know.No I have no other AGP card to test but I think I have a stone old PCI video card with 4 MB or so but I think the connector [to monitor] is a other one.Oh and by the way so there is also not comming any beeps anymore also not if the PC starts normaly later.Maybe the beep is broken now,no idea.

Ok so I dont have much knowledge about the Pins and jumper on the board etc so if it help then I can post the name of the board (ECS P6VAP-A+) + pic I found on the Net so I have the same.Maybe you can look on it and tell me what do to about jumpers etc or just draw on the picture what to change etc.

mainboard_ecs_p6vap-a.jpg

greetz

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redblkjck

Here is a manual for the board.  There is a detailed diagram that would be better to reference.  ver 1.1 or 1.0
http://eudownload.ecs.com.tw/dlfileecs/manual/mb/eng/p6/p6vapap11eng.zip or http://eudownload.ecs.com.tw/dlfileecs/manual/mb/eng/p6/p6vapap10eng.zip

 

That red LED is indicating there is active voltage to the memory modules as in RAM to system standby mode.
 

The clear CMOS jumper is singled out by itself next to the battery.  On this system you only need to disconnect the power cable and short pins 2-3 for a few seconds, replace them back on pins 1-2 to normal operation.   Sometimes more steps are needed just so someone doesn't accidentally clear it.   Interesting this board has a flash bios jumper.  Haven't seen one of those in a while.  It prevents you from flashing the BIOS without the jumper in place.  It's located at the end of the big eprom BIOS chip.The 4 pin power connector that is not visible on yours, is for a newer system.  If you were to buy a new PSU today, it will come with power connecters not used on your system.  The newer processors need dedicated power rather than sharing system power through the typical 20 pin connector.The monitor LED will react to the signaling power from the PC.  There are power settings for this in BIOS but there normally no reason to change these settings.  The monitor should pick up a signal and go green soon as the power on the PC kicks on.  Yeah the monitor could be going bad but normally it's just a loose cable or a bad pin.   If the power button is on, you should be getting a green light on the board near the CMOS jumper.  The keyboard should light up/flash when power is applied.  The num lock key can be controlled upon boot in the BIOS, so the light wouldn't come on until enabled. The fans should start, the cd rom drive should initialize along with the hard drive.  The LED for hard drive activity should be blinking once the BIOS has posted.  If you are getting blinking LED for the drive and can hear the hard drive heads moving like its booting up but no video, your monitor is not getting a signal.   There needs to be a video card detected by the BIOS or it will fail to boot.  If the video card is good but no monitor hooked up or bad cable, it will still boot up as normal. The BIOS speaker is normally just a little piezo speaker on the board or two wires off the panel connector pins (long single row of pins) connecting to magnet based speaker on the case.  Some BIOS you can disable the system beeps but I didn't see that mentioned for this board.  There are 4 pins for the speaker but only 2 wires connected to pins 1 - 4  (15-18) when using external speaker.  If the onboard piezo is to be used a jumper is placed on pins 3-4 (15-16 on this board).   I'll try to answer rest of this later, running out of time this evening.  - jack  

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LCF-AT

Hi jack,

thanks again for this new infos + manuals. :) [can you get them also in german?Just to be sure to understand correctly later].

Ok,so now I can see what what is about the jumpers and LEDs etc with this manuals.

Ok one important question: So what power cable from the mainboard?No you just mean the normal "Power - Stecker to Dose"?So I mean outside from the PC only this one right?So I mean I turn OFF the PC [all off now] and then I do change the pin position of CMOS JP1 from original 1&2 to 2&3 pins and then I start the PC again [On button] and wait a few seconds right?

In short: - PC Off | Change CMOS Pin to 2&3 | PC On | Wait few second | PC Off | Change CMOS Pin to 1&2 | PC On = Done.Better you have a description for dummys like me in this case. :) So I mean to change the Pins need also some power after or not?Pin change + PC On / Off etc so it will nothing bring if I just change the Pins without to make the PC On after or?

Ok so if I do this then the red light should also get off later yes?

About monitor + LED on mainboard.Yes this LED on mainboard is always On and green if I turn the PC on.So this light is never off or so.The fans are working too,CD Rom is not connected [more broken than working].So the LED for HDD gets just On if the PC did start correctly with BIOS data start screen / memory self check etc so before the light for the HDD is off but HDD is working.

Ok I will try to do the CMOS clear steps.

PS: Ok now I found a German short description about CMOS clear and there I can read this....[PC Off / change Pin position for 10 seconds | change Pin position back and then trun PC On].Ah ok so I don't need extra to turn On/Off the PC each time if I change the jumpers right?Sorry just wanna be sure so I think I do already almost anything wrong here. :)

http://www.paules-pc-forum.de/forum/bios/104642-cmos-clear-durchfuehren.html

PS2: So what is if I do this and it will not help and the PC still keeps dark and red LED also keeps On?

greetz

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redblkjck

I looked they only have Englisches Handbuch on their German site.  Yeah I know what you mean with EN DE. Trying to find EN technical data on Fritz or ELSA cards to compare with DE docs was not easy. T-Online was certainly no help English or Deutsch. ;) 


 


The instructions from the German forum look correct.   PC off (unplugged AC), jumper the pins 2 - 3 for 10 seconds, jumper pins back to 1 -2, plug power to PC.  The manual claims that this is the only method needed.   No harm if the jumper was on when power was applied.  This just interrupts the power coming from the battery.  Power cable: external AC power cable is the only one needed.  Ya you can remove the DC cable from the main board but this is not necessary.


 


The Red LED on the mother board means there is active voltage to the RAM and it is in sleep mode (S3/STR mode), Energieverwaltung ACPI Modi: S3.  As I read it, this light shouldn't be on if the PC was shutdown by power off (S5) or fully running (S0).  There is a jumper to enable/disable S3 mode of power saving for this board. Newer systems don't have jumpers for these, ACPI OS or BIOS enabled.  If the BIOS is controlling ACPI and S3 mode is not available then S1 mode will be used as default.  S0 is power fully On and S4 is suspend memory to the hard disk (hibernate).  The manual does show some power saving mode options in the BIOS. The default BIOS value for power saving is S1.  If the jumper for S3 is enabled, then setting the BIOS should be S3 not S1.  I would make sure these match but honestly on systems since XP, the OS should control the power settings; ACPI driver.  There are settings for power signals to video but the default values should be fine.  Maybe the power saving mode isn't waking up the video but that wouldn't quite explain why it comes on intermittently.  Could check the settings in the Wake Up Events or try disabling the power saving as a test.  When it's stuck with the red light on but no video, see if holding the power button for 5 sec has any effect?  If it does, everything should shut off (not in stand by) and hitting the button again will be from a cold boot.  It that works then something is messing with power saving features when it goes into stand by or a soft shutdown is sent. - jack 


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LCF-AT

Hi jack,

ok I did reset the CMOS now via jumper change and after this I had again a long time trouble to get the system start so almost one hour I did work on it to get it start somehow and the beep was comming again.Also I tried to remove and switch the memory dimms but in all diffrent positions the red ligh is alway ON also if no memory was pluged into the board!?!After this I have setup the BIOS again with some diffrent settings where I think that they are ok [enale AGPx4 [64MB is deafult but I can set it higher to 256 but I don't whether I should set it higher or not so my videocard has 256 MB]].Also I have seen some many other settings also these what you are talking about but there I also don't know what to setup etc.

Ok so you mean next time I should check whether it BIOS option [xy] was set to S1 or S3 and then I should set it to S3 if possible yes?And if not then to S1 yes?

So if I press the power button for some seconds then the PC goes Off [normal] or do you mean the reset button?

So it would be nice if you could next time create a little short list where you write what I should setup next time in the BIOS settings so I think this would be better for dummy users and I can write your steps quickly on paper etc. :)

Thanks again so far and till later.

PS: So today I did remove the left cable from board so I mean this after the green LED on the left side and then I connected them again and turn the PC On [nothing happens for a while] and then I shake again a little the HDD cable and the beep was comming and PC starts but the HDD should be not the problem so also without HDD comes no beep on other tests.So sometimes the beep comes after a short while and sometime as today it need a hour and I still don't know the reason why it comes and why not you know.Every day the same game,some shakes here some shakes there = beep = some kind of random.So on the other hand it should also sound very funny for others to hear this or?So I did almost shake on everything inside of the PC and almost on all places where I did shake did the PC start [videocard-shake,HDD-shake,CPU-shake,Sound-Chip-knock,etc].So for me its just a random if the PC then starts on any shake.

greetz

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deepzero

I used to work in a PC repair shop and this is a classic.


 


The basic problem is this: your system is getting old. You probably knew that already.


 


I've said it before: pay a visit to your local junkyard and you will find superior hardware there. I'm serious, i've done it myself. Alternatively, you will get MUCH better hw for very few €€€ on ebay, or your local ebaymagazine or whatever. is your HDD as dated as your mainboard? Eventually, when you least expect it (naturally) it will fail, too. And all you data and scripts, etc. will be gone forever, and you will 'bite yourself in the ass', if you know what i mean, because you didnt spend the extra few bucks.


 


Now, it looks like your power supply is doing fine, and i suggest you stay away from the BIOS and the RAM, they are not your (primary) problem.


 


Check the cables going from the PU to the mainboard, and make sure they are fully plugged in. Then, find the cable that goes from your on/off button to the mainboard. On the mainborad, manually "hotwire" the metal pins the on/off cable connects. r. has suggested this above somewhere, iirc. Do it.


 


Also, are the little green towers with the X on it (as on your picture) somehow arched? Like in this picture:


 


it61802,1270685658,Defekte_Kondensatoren


 


 


 


Bottom line is: throw that piece of junk out, and get a pentium 4 machine or something for <50€


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redblkjck

If you got the CMOS to clear without any change then I agree you can rule it out as the issue.  For the BIOS of older systems I disable settings that are not needed as much as possible.  Floppy, com lpt ports, unused controllers, modem, etc…  Try to free up as much resources as possible.  Sharing of the IRQs and reserved resources was more of an issue for older mother boards.
   
AGP AP size, 128MB is good for a 256MB card with a good size of system ram.   You can run some benchmark tests if 256 performs any better  but they seem to peak between 64 and 128. The 4 sec delay is a power setting in the BIOS for the PWR switch.  If you just pressed the PWR button quickly it’s a standby signal, this would the similar as closing the lid on a notebook.   The system is in a power saving mode, holding the PWR button in past the 4 sec will cut the power.   This is a setting in the BIOS to enable or disable this form of power saving.  It’s in the same area where you set up the system to use the keyboard as the power button instead. 
The red LED has me a concerned as I believe it should be off unless it’s in standby S3 mode.  A system in standby mode can lock out until a proper wake signal is received.   Ever see a notebook that won’t wake up from standby, same thing.   Perhaps it’s just an indicator that the S3 jumper is enabled.   I don’t recall very many boards that had a dedicated LED related to its memory standby status.  Far as other BIOS settings, yours is a little more particular as it uses jumpers on the board for clock speed, cpu, power, etc.   If they are jumpered for auto detection then the BIOS optimized defaults should be fine for the normal operation.   If you are overclocking, older cards not PnP compatible or short on available resources then you need to adjust a few things.  

I don’t think I would rule out that PSU yet until you can verify what the voltages are.  You are just looking to see if it’s staying stable and within a 5% tolerance.   If it’s borderline low or unstable I would look at swapping it out.   Here is why.  There is a grey cable on the ATX plug, this signals to the system that the power is OK; it’s a logic voltage signal.  If it's present, it's ok to boot up and stay running.   If the PSU voltages are not in tolerance the PSU signal puts the system in RESET till the power is good again.  So you need to check the voltages of the PSU.  Myself, I would pull the 20pin off the mother board and use a volt meter to check the voltages.  Here is guide on how to test this, not too difficult but you need to be careful not to short anything.  http://www.ochardware.com/articles/psuvolt/psuvolt.html   You also want to check if you are getting a good ground on all the black cables for that ATX plug. If the voltage is a bit higher unplugged from the system, the PSU can still signal the reset but these normally level out when actually hooked up to the board.   Also if you are able to get to a BIOS screen, under the Health menu you can see the voltages in the BIOS.  Obviously if you are in the BIOS the PSU voltage is within tolerance but it might be displaying a very low borderline reading or fluctuating badly.   These are signs it might be time to replace the PSU soon or some other hardware is affecting the PSU.  Loose ground/wires, cracked board, cold solder joint, corroded oxidized pins, bad PCI card, worn caps, etc.

 

That pic deepzero posted is what I was talking about blown caps.  The capacitors for the CPU and onboard GPU chips are pretty common problems.  You can replace them but it can be a ugly job unless you solder a lot.  Using the wrong temp tip can damage other parts of the board. The swelling on top before they split is the sign they are going. If they are spit already you will likely smell it and nothing works anyway.

 

Last item that I can think of would be the CPU itself.  If the heat sink hasn't been doing it's job, the CPU can get damaged.  Garbled video, BSOD, can't post BIOS, windows crashes before it loads or constant rebooting with error beeps are some symptoms of a bad CPU.  - jack       

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LCF-AT

Hi again,

so I have this also this problems with the blown caps so I found 4 or 5 peaces of them on the board but they are just a little blown up not so much as on the picture which Deep did post.

About the voltages.So is it important to have the CPU fan connected to the mainboard?So I told you already that I did change the CPU fan with a other one and this fan has not connection cable into the mainboard itself so the fan has only a normal Power + / Power switch redirect etc you know what I mean.So if I remember right then I found today in the BIOS some 0 0 display for this voltages etc.So can this be a problem for this maybe?

So on the ATX Power cable 20 Pin I see no extra or other gray cable etc.I also tried to remove this 20 Pin before but without success so far so its not so easy to remove it in my case.

Other question: So it is not possible to force the beep manually if I do some short jumper move etc somewhere?

PS: Today it has again taken a lot time before the PC did start. :( But also this time I pressed somewhere many keys at the same time [2 hands] on the keyboard and then is starts again also without any beep.So what's that now?Before I tried it with the knock and shake method in the PC inside but this did no more work since two times and now I press something on keyboard and then it did work.(!)

Thanks again so far and greetz

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redblkjck

The fan for the CPU when hooked up to the MB uses the 3rd wire to send info from sensor.  If nothing is hooked up to that connector, the sensor is open. JFYI, there are options in BIOS Heath for alarms and shutdown signals for all sensors.  You are just looking for sensors reporting the 12V, 5V and 3.3V readings for obvious issues.  Ex.  If that 12V is reporting 11.45, this is a low reading.  Jumping between 11.5 - 12.3 - 11.7 is fluctuating too much.  11.95 - 12.0 is normal fluctuation.
 
The gray wire might be a lighter color but it's always pin number 8, not all companies used the color code standard.  This pin is used for logic voltage. The ATX connector can be hard to pull off but make sure the plastic clip isn't keeping it held to the board.  Unless you can get voltage probes to make contact down in the connector, removal of the connector is the only way.  Might be test points inside the PSU to measure voltage but using the connector would be much easier.   If the caps are swelling with a noticeable bulge, you are likely to be having intermittent problems and they are bad.  If there is any discharge on the surface or split they are bad.   On the motherboard you are likely to see them swollen, split or show small discharge.  Inside the PSU the capacitors are more likely to have leaked everywhere or exploded.

 

No way of testing the beep by an operation with in the PC that I am aware of. When the speaker is soldered to the board then you might be able to disable enable that speaker with a jumper on the panel connector.  Where normally a 2 wire speaker is hooked up to a 4 pin connector, a jumper is used to route the + output to the soldered speaker.  You could test for a signal off the + output pin with another speaker.   This is pin 15 on the panel connector.

 

Pressing on the keyboard:  The keyboard can be used for the Wake signal from standby or Power On Hot Keys option in BIOS (yours also has a jumper to enable keyboard Power On option).   USB keyboard could send a Wake signal also but for this one I think the Power On is only for the PS2 ports.  USB wake signals normally requires a jumper or BIOS option to enable a dedicated 5V for USB.  - jack

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nonspin


Let me just point out a few things (in case someone already did - sorry).


During the boot sequence - obviously - the connected hardware get tested.


Usually, the storage/boot devices get checked and initialized last.


If it hangs there and doesn't report back - and doesn't time-out there's only a


few probable causes:


 


- HDD failure (make sure to enable SMART in your BIOS which will report it's status)


- FDD / Floppy PowerCable not connected


- CDROM is DOA


 


The above are known to freeze old machines.


 


The check if your IDE ports are functioning at all, unplug all devices, but the FDD and insert some old floppy


disc. If it tries to access and read it, the initial Hardware check has been completed and is most likely ok.



Also disable detection of Plug and Play in Bios (disable) to let Windows detect them.


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LCF-AT

Hi again,


 


short info: So now the PC is really broken = no success if I do some knock / shakes etc. :( So I just post this reply from a other PC and now I have to look for a new cheap PC system.


 


So then thank you again for your hints and we hear us again if I found a new PC. :)


 


greetz and till ...xy


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GIV

If you like let us help you. Put hete a Paypal account and we can help you to get another PC.

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GIV

If you like let us help you. Put here a Paypal account and we can help you to get another PC.

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redblkjck

Sorry to hear that. :(  I was betting on the power source and/or grounding for the PSU being the problem.  - jack  


 




Hi again,


 


short info: So now the PC is really broken = no success if I do some knock / shakes etc. :( So I just post this reply from a other PC and now I have to look for a new cheap PC system.


 


So then thank you again for your hints and we hear us again if I found a new PC. :)


 


greetz and till ...xy



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Lostin

Sorry to hear that LCF-AT that your PC already broken. But that's it each thing has lifetime and i think you know that already :)


 




If you like let us help you. Put here a Paypal account and we can help you to get another PC.




 


I am the first ready for help LCF-AT with new PC if accepted i will take care of the whole thing z9D4QB9.gif


Edited by Lostin (see edit history)
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LCF-AT

Hi again,


 


thanks again so far for your help / hints / offers etc.


So the found a new PC [low budget] which comes soon.Not the best maybe and also no highend system but better than nothing and I think for me it should also be enough.


 


At the moment I did lend a older tiny Notebook which I can use so far but its also already a little broken. :) Anyway,to write a little + internet its ok to use it these days.


 


So then till later.I will send a reply if the new PC is there and working later.


 


greetz


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Dreamer

good that you have new pc :plane:  i was found problem on mine pc what is  its cmos batery huh :scratch:


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LCF-AT

Hi again,


 


short feedback: So my new PC is there and is working very well so far without problems. :) So the best thing is the speed performance so for me its very fast if I do work with it on OS itself or Internet so this is just great. :) So I can also use the latest browser and don't need to use any stone old FF version anymore so the flash problems which I had before are also gone now what is very good = no more hangs or stops or long waiting if I access any internet page which used a lot flash stuff etc.All in all I just can say that I am really happy with the new one.


 


So the only thing what I didn't knew before was that I only can use 3 GB Ram for XP and that now 1 GB Ram is not used now.Anyway so till now all is working very fast for me so maybe I also don't need the 1 GB.


 


Intel Pentium D CPU 3.0 Ghz.Grafic is OnBoard with 256 MB with shared memory [max 1024 MB] or so.No idea how to make the size higher if needed etc.One IDE port is also included where I did connect my old HDD now. :)


 


PS: I also can play Angry Birds in HD on the net now. :)


 


greetz


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Teddy Rogers

Glad you got a slightly better system! Looking at the spec you posted I'd say you have an 830 processor. Fortunately it supports 64bit instructions, unfortunately there is no virtualization support. However why don't you install a more modern operating system such as Windows 7 and take advantage of the 64bit memory addressing then virtual machine an XP installation? Windows XP is going to be unsupported by Microsoft come April next year so I wouldn't recommend using it as your default OS. At the very least if you are adamant on using Windows XP run a modified XPe version as support will continue until 2016...


 


Ted.


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LCF-AT

Hi again,


 


hhhm,so does it mean it shows now 3 GB but used all 4 GB?Or can I use or pipe the rest RAM to my grafic RAM somehow etc?


 


Yes it seems that this was a good choice Ted. :) No idea why not using a other OS. :) So I am not sure whether it will also work then liquid on this PC or not etc.Yes I also hear that the XP supports ends next year but also the XP update service did never really works [some bug / process = 99 %] so I can wait endless.Ok I will think about it so maybe I do switch to a other newer OS later.


 


PS: So in the Everest tool it shows me....



CPU Typ DualCore Intel Pentium D 930, 3033 MHz (15 x 202)
CPU Bezeichnung Presler
Befehlssatz x86, x86-64, MMX, SSE, SSE2, SSE3
Vorgesehene Taktung 3000 MHz
Min / Max CPU Multiplie 12x / 15x
Engineering Sample Nein
L1 Trace Cache 12K Instructions
L1 Datencache 16 KB
L2 Cache 2 MB (On-Die, ECC, ATC, Full-Speed)
CPU #0 Intel(R) Pentium(R) D CPU 3.00GHz, 3017 MHz
CPU #1 Intel(R) Pentium(R) D CPU 3.00GHz, 3017 MHz
--------------------------------------------
Arbeitsspeicher
Gesamt 3037 MB
Belegt 483 MB
Frei 2553 MB
Ausgenutzt 16 % Auslagerungsdatei
Gesamt 4923 MB
Belegt 441 MB
Frei 4481 MB
Ausgenutzt 9 % Virtueller Speicher
Gesamt 7960 MB
Belegt 925 MB
Frei 7035 MB
Ausgenutzt 12 % Physical Address Extension (PAE)
Supported by Operating System Ja
Supported by CPU Ja
Aktiv Ja
--------------------------------------------
Video Adapter Eigenschaften
Gerätebeschreibung Intel(R) G41 Express Chipset
Adapterserie Intel(R) GMA 4500
BIOS Version Intel Video BIOS
Chiptyp Intel(R) 4 Series Express Chipset Family
DAC Typ Intern
Installierter Treiber igxprd32 (6.14.10.5402)
Speichergröße 256 MB

greetz


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GIV

I think is a very good configuration. The amount used by X86 OS is 3Gb. If your MB lets you maximise the amount of RAM shared to your graphic card. This can be changed fom your BIOS menu. Otherwise the 1Gb left of ram is lost.

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